Lotte World!!!

Thursday, White Plains

I'm home again after a very long day yesterday, that included the last sightseeing and the flight home.

Wednesday morning we checked out of the hotel. We drove past the 1988 Olympic Village, and I had a chance to see (at least in passing) the stadiums that were used for those games. We drove to the Lotte complex, a huge set of connected buildings, including a convention hotel, shopping mall, theater, and indoor/outdoor amusement park. I met two of my Wind Symphony students, Julie Kyung and Jong-Seo Youn, at the park and we had a great time there for the day.

Lotte World's indoor section is like a huge arena with several floors with rides, games, restaurants, and an icerink. A bridge over the street connects the indoor section with an island in an adjacent lake, with more outdoor rides built around a central castle, which looked suspiciously like Cinderella's castle at Magic Kingdom/Disneyworld. In fact, a lot of Lotte World reflected the Disney influcence: shows, mascot (a raccoon -- lots of children wear raccoon ears in the park; the connection is obvious), uniforms, "Cast Only" signs on doors, even the monorail that connects the indoor and outdoor sections of the park looks like Disney.

After the morning and afternoon at Lotte World, we said goodbyes to half the group, who were staying on with friends and relatives in Seoul, and made our way to Incheon Airport for the 14 hour ride home. I reset my watch for Eastern Daylight time before boarding and that helped a great deal with the time change on the way back.

This trip has had a major impact on my life. It wasn't just a sightseeing trip. It wasn't even simply a cultural exchange. In many ways, it was a diplomacy trip, to bring America and Korea closer together by making connections on a very personal level. It was very exciting and emotional for me, especially in Buson at the orphanage where I rehearsed and performed with their orchestra. I saw beautiful mountains, waterfalls, and coastlines. It was exciting for all of us to see the adoptees who traveled with us as they explored the country of their heritage. Three adoptees had life-changing experiences: one saw her mother for the first time in many, many years, and two met their birth mothers for the first time. We were all moved by these events.

As I unpack and settle back in, I'll download photos and add them to the previous postings.

My thanks go to Hyae Kyung Jo for leading this trip, to Julia Park for inviting me, and to Grace Park and Karen Mok for making me feel so welcome all along the way.

Sokcho, Temple stay, Nanta

Tuesday, Seoul
The last two days have been very different in many ways: exciting &
disappointing being the extremes.
On Monday, before we checked out of the beautiful Hotel Kensington, we
took a cablecar to the top of Seolak Mountain - incredible views of
the area.
Next we drove to NakSan Sah Temple, where we were scheduled for an
overnight temple stay. Dinner was eaten with a monk and the rigors of
the decorum of the meal were very intense. We got up at 3:30 am and
attended the Buddhist prayer service before breakfast. It was a very
disappointing experience however because our monk guide preferred to
talk about himself more than the temple. Our group leaders were not
happy.
Now I am back in Seoul at the Palace Hotel. We went shopping, had a
wonderful Western dinner, and saw the musical, Nanta.
Tomorrow I go to Lotte World before flying home.

Mountains, churches and temples

Monday morning, Sakcho
Yesterday we drove from early morning at 6:00 am all the way to Sakcho to attend a church service at Galilee Church, where we were welcomed warmly, and lunch was served after the service. In the afternoon we toured a museum dedicated to Korean history, in particular the lives of the north Korean refugees who found themselves displaced and unable to return home after the divison of the 38th parallel was made. It was a sobering experience as Karen Mok explained to me how some members of her family were divided at the time. During the reunionification push several years ago, she was able to visit with that part of the family, but now that door is closed and she does not know if she will ever see or hear from them again. The visit concluded with a drum/dance troup performance. The performers wore costumes which included headdresses with long wires with streamers attached. As the music developed, the performers moved their heads to swing the streamers, resulting in some beautiful patterns.
Last night we stayed in the beautiful Kensington Stars Hotel in Sakcho (I think I minamed the town earlier), at the foot of beautiful cloud-capped mountains. We had some free time last evening and it was great to relax a bit in the midst of this aggressive touring schedule. This morning we will take a cable car to the top of one of the mountains -- I am very excited to see this panaoramic view.
Tonight we go to a Buddhist temple/youth hostel, where we will stay the night. Sleeping on the floor, up at 3:30 am for a prayer service -- this should be interesting.
No photos yet as I am still searching for a computer which will accept my camera downloads!

Buson Orchestra Concert and more

Saturday evening
We flew back to the mainland from Jeju Island yesterday, arriving in Buson. We drove to the Catholic Boys and Girls Orphanage there, where I was scheduled to rehearse and perform with their boys' orchestra. I had no idea what I was to conduct (sight-reading a score is every conductor's nightmare) and didn't have high hopes for the experience because the orchestra does not have a director or music teacher of any kind -- the boys practice on their own. Apparently they had no high hopes for this American who was coming to spend less than an hour in rehearsal with them, then attempt to conduct one work on their concert that evening. We were both dead wrong.
What I experienced in Buson is what every musician hopes for: an exciting and heartfelt experience, where the musical communication transcends language barriers. From their folder, I chose the von Suppe, Light Cavalry Overture, for which I had a pedestrian knowledge. We rehearsed for about 50 minutes, and in that time I was completely impressed with their musicianship, technique, and intonation, and they gave me their full attention and superior effort. The resulting performance brought the audience to their feet, and afterwards Mother Superior invited me to return to work with the orchestra again at some time in the future. The group played on the level of an all-state orchestra -- it was simply amazing. And I was so happy to hear that the nuns in charge remarked about a clear difference in their performance after our rehearsal. The boys crowded around for photos and handshakes afterwards, and it was very difficult to leave these orphans, who clearly have a healthy balance of academics and co-curricular activities in their lives, as well as an extraordinary and positive self-image. The remainder of the program included traditional Korean dances performed by the girls' and children's dance ensembles, and a performance by the girls' drum ensemble. It was a phenomenal performance, on any standard.
We have photos and video, but the computer in the hotel is accepting neither from our cameras. Those will have to wait til I return. It was a pivotal musical and emotional experience I will remember the rest of my life.
Today (Saturday) was busy and exhausting. We were up and out of the hotel by 8:00 am. We had an early morning walk around an island park in Buson with beautiful views of the harbor (and you can see Japan in the distance!), and had a quick visit at the Shinsaegae Department Store, recently named the largest department store in the world by the Guinness World Record team. From there we traveled to Gyeongju, the capital of the Shilla Dynasty for about 1000 years. There we toured the Cheomseongdae Observatory (7th century stone structure), the Gyeongju National Museum, the Seokguram Grotto (6th century Buddhist temple) and Bulguksa Temple (6th century temple and surrounding buildings; although most of the wooden buildings have been rebuilt over the centuries, the stone bridges, stairways and pagodas are original).
We then drove to Daegu, where we checked in for the night. Tomorrow we must be up and out of the hotel at 6:00 am to drive to Sokcho in time for a church service at 11:00 am!

Treasures of Jeju

Thursday evening
Today was our last full day to spend here on Jeju Island. I took 200+ photos, but uploading them will have to wait until I have PC access.
Wednesday update:

• Gyulimsung Cliffs - We saw these Wednesday when we arrived. These beautiful lava cliffs seem to rise out of the sea, and are truly beautiful.
• Mystery Backward Road - This odd little section of road has an optical illusion. Although the road seems to appear to go downward, when the bus driver put the bus in neutral, we drifted backward and up the hill. Completely random, completely odd.
• The island is referred to as the Special Independent Province of Korea, and seems to have an autonomy in various areas, one of them being education. We met with the Education Superintendent yesterday, and saw a presentation on Jeju Island's plan to become a truly International City. Because it is centrally located in northeast Asia, the plan calls for the development of English as the official language, learning centers sponsored by an international circle of universities, and a growing economic community, brining conventions and festivals to the island. It seemed that this is a very ambitious program, but one which they are apparently purusing with great fervor.
• Hongik Children's Home - This orphanage greeted us with their yodeling choir of about 18 singers, ages 5-10. Their costumes were adorable, and their sound was amazing (two parts, incredible intonation, astounding yodeling). I had to say I got a lump in my throat hearing these children. They have a very aggressive and successful adoption program, and they have been moving forward to re-direct adoptions here in Korea, rather than abroad.

Thursday:

• Hallim Park - This beautiful park highlighted the tropical nature of this island, and had several sections including a series of caves, a water garden, a bonsai garden, and a bird zoo. I saw cockatoos and other tropical birds, plus several other species, including white peacocks and ostriches. I must say that the ostriches were quite intimidating; I didn't get too close!
• Mt. Sanbangsan rises straight up adjacent to the sea on the Youmeori coast. We climbed one-third of the way up (442 steps, yes I counted!) to a natural grotto, where a Buddha watches over a small shrine. The natural spring there is said to extend the lives of all who drink the water.
• The Hyatt here is beautiful. The grounds include an outdoor pool adjacent to the sea, a wedding chapel, and beautiful gardens which connect the various sections of the complex. It is one of several hotels along the southern coast of the island, making up a substantial resort area.

Tomorrow: Flight back to Buson, clinic rehearsal with Buson Boys' Home Orchestra

To Jeju Island

Thursday morning
I have just a few minutes before we depart for the day -- I got locked out of internet access since leaving Seoul, so I'm in the Hyatt business center for just a few minutes.
We flew to Jeju Island yesterday and were received by the Provincial Government Education Superintendent. We toured the famed Dragon Rock and beautiful lava cliffs along the sea -- I got great photos. Today is more touring throughout this Hawaii-like island before returning to the Hyatt this evening.
The Korean people are so inviting, so hospitable. They are eager for everyone to see their country and appreciate their culture. It's been a truly eye-opening experience.
More later when there's time (and hopefully a WiFi connection!)

Did I mention that it's monsoon season?

Weather.com predicted 100% chance of rain today and they were
(unfortunately) correct. Crocs were definitely the best choice for
this trip. The rain was steady and heavy, and forced the cancellation
of several activities, including the tour of the royal palace and
sufficient time to explore the Korea House, a replica of a 14th
century estate house and gardens.
So, instead we moved forward with as much of the itinerary as we
could. We met this morning with the principal of the host school,
Seoul Foreign Language School, then toured the facility. The culture
here fuels academic competition to a fierce degree. All students
declare a primary foreign language (English, French, German, Chinese,
and Japanese), and also elect a second language to study. A third
language is randomly selected as well. Students in this private school
attend classes from 8:00 am to 5:00 pm. Students eat dinner for an
hour and then study from 6:00-10:00 pm in assigned areas of the
school. To further encourage preparation and study, students are
assigned to study areas in three groups by academic standing. The
majority of students study in classrooms. Students ranked 26-50 are
seated by standing at study carrels with upgraded seats and lighting
in a special room of the library. Students ranked 1-25 are seated in a
premium section of the library, with special ergonomic chairs, larger
carrels, and lockable storage at each seat. All seats are numbered,
and so all students are keenly aware of their standing at all times.
Classes are held Monday through Friday, plus Monday through Saturday
every other week for a total of 220 school days per year. Maybe
"fierce academic competition" is does not adequately describe the
atmosphere! The extra-curricular activities are reserved for the week
following exams, when student rehearse and practice to present a
Festival. The schedule during that week is different - practice
replaces study in the evenings, but end at 11:00 pm. The pace and
demands put on students is (by my standards) beyond imagination, but
the students seem to take it in stride.
We spent the latter part of the morning at a Korean Culinary
Institute, where we learned to make scallion pancakes and a marinated
beef dish. The afternoon was spent at the Korea House, where we dodged
the rain and learned to make Korean rice paper wedding boxes.
Lastly, On last evening's activities: our hosts took us to see the
World Cup soccer stadium and gardens, a Korean produce market, and an
area best described as a Greenwich Village-type neighborhood, with
narrow winding streets, cafes karaoke lounges, and restaurants.
Tomorrow: Jeju Island, the Hawaii of Korea.

Kim Chi, Showers, and Shoes

This is a photo taken at dinner this evening. From left to right, clockwise: Mrs. Kim (my home-stay host), her mother, James, Michael, and me. This is my third meal here, and I'm getting used to the kim chee (well, a little bit!).
So I am definitely learning a lot here. First, you always remove your shoes when you enter a Korean home. Since we're living in the fourth floor apartment above Mrs. Kim's pre-school, I leave my shoes at the front door, then wear "welcome" slippers to climb the steps, then leaves those slippers outside the apartment door when I enter. And of course, you reverse the process as you exit.
Korean showers are also very different. The bathroom has a shower drain in the middle of the floor. The bathtub has a removable hand-held shower heard, but the shower curtain does not extend into the tub -- the water goes everywhere, including the floor, where it drains away. You just have to be careful when you exit the tub, because the floor is wet!
Today's expedition took us to Korea University, where we had a meeting with the president of the school, and I had the pleasure of exchanging business cards with him. After lunch in the university cafeteria, we visited an elementary school that is connected to the National School of Education, where new teachers are trained. It was a very progressive and beautiful school.
The flood waters of the Han Gang River receded today, revealing parks, bicycle/running paths, basketball courts, and more in parks along the banks. May residents were enjoying the respite from the rains.
Tomorrow we will tour our host school, the Seoul Foreign Language School.

First day in Seoul

After a brief orientation at the airport we were bused to the Korean
Cultural Center for a traditional Korean brunch and a Welcome Concert.
The program featured traditional Korean music and instruments,
including a two-string violin. I also met my home-stay host family at
this time. Following the concert we traveled into Seoul proper, to the
Seoul Foreign Language. School, which coordinated the home stay family
contacts. I am staying with the Kim Family.
Mr. Kim is a banker and Mrs. Kim owns and runs a day care/Kindergarten
school. The school takes up the first three floors of their residence
and they live with their son on the fourth floor.
The Kims took us to a traditional Korean restaurant for lunch, then
took us shopping in on of the large shopping malls in the market
district. From there they took us to the tallest building in Seoul,
where we toured the aquarium, saw an Imax feature, and went up to the
63rd story observatory and art gallery. This is the monsoon season and
the downpours today accounted for 10% of Seoul's annual rainfall. And
so, because of the rain and fog, we could see nothing from the 63rd
floor!
We had dinner at a traditional Korean barbeque restaurant and then
drove to the Kim's home. My housemates, Michael and James, and I
presented Mr. and Mrs. Kim with hostess gifts and said good night!
Sound like a long day? It was!!!

The passage to Seoul

I met my group at Terminal 4 at JFK - a huge an apparently recent
addition - and we departed on time. I had never heard of Asiana
Airlines before, but they are presumably partners with United. The
service and food has been excellent.
I am currently directly over Sarah Palin (a distinction I am not apt
to claim happily, or often) as our flight path has taken us north over
the Hudson Bay and northern Canada, and across Alaska. We will soon be
over the Aleutians & northeastern Russia, I believe.
We are due to arrive at 4:00 am. I reset my watch to Seoul time before
departing, so it's now midnite again for me. I've learned - though I
haven't traveled through many time zones or often - that I do best to
start thinking in the new time zone way before I leave. Maybe I'm odd
that way!
I'm typing this at 35,000 ft but won't be able to send it until we
land. Our group leader, Hyaekyung, tells me it will be easy to find Wi-
fi connections.

Sent from my iPod. Have a great day!

The bags are packed!

Packing for 2 weeks in one suitcase is a challenge. It's especially so when you're not expecting laundry facilities and the weather outlook is hot, rainy, and humid! 

In any case, I think I'm all set. This will be a great adventure, especially because I'm going to be documenting it here -- at least I hope to, as long as I can find Wi-Fi hotspots along the way!

I have my Canon 20D ready to go, with enough memory cards to take about 1600 photos. That should be enough for the photos of the rides at Lotte World, but what about the rest of the trip?!?!

Thank you again to all the families who helped to underwrite this trip. It's going to be an amazing experience, and I will be eager to share the trip with all of you when I return.